Last post from Tokyo, unless I get bored again

The clock just turned 1. It's cold and dark outside Haneda Airport and I'm huddling under a felt blanket inside the 'Refresh Room'.

Tucked in the left wing of the Arrival Hall, the room costs 1000¥ per hour, the use of the shower, another 800¥ for a half hour. It's maybe thrice the size of a cubicle in the manga kissa. But still expensive considering you can easily sleep out on the chairs in the departure hall.

Expensive for a hobo...

Going home with the sneeze

Gosh, I've never sneezed so much. And I'm not even down with the flu. Weather forecasts say it's warmer today in Tokyo so I thought I'll head out without my bubble jacket.

And then at the hotel lobby, I heard someone asking the recep for an umbrella.

It's raining and I've checked in my brolly along with my luggage with the hotel concierge. It's my last day here, you see.

So I'm braving the winter rain - my final adventure in Tokyo. This year.

Today, I saw it. The speeding bullet.

I've taken the Shinkansen tons of times. It's taken me from Tokyo to the northern tip of Kyushu in less than one sleep cycle. But you don't feel the speed much on the train. And especially not when it pulls up lazily at the platform.

Today, the mighty Shinkansen all but blew my hair off the top of my head. Totally get why they call it the bullet train.

The Rising Sun is taking its own sweet time

6am. I'm right now wide awake waiting for the sun to rise. About 3 hours north of metro Tokyo, a little bit more west - Kinugawa Onsen, Nikko-shi.

I've been up since 4.30am. First parking myself in the steaming outdoor ofuro. With a clear view of the icy sky, I thought I'd catch the first warm rays of the day here.

By 5am, the winter steam kinda winded me and I quickly sought refuge under the thick blanket in my room.

With the window shades wide open of course. I've the same view here as the one in onsen.

The stars slowly faded as light finally invaded a few minutes ago. It's getting brighter but slowly. The sun is in no hurry here in the mountains. The river seems to be taking its cue, even the flow seems a little more sluggish in this lazy glow.

Maybe I should pop back to sleep.

Land of the Rising Burp

I'm giving my tum tums a good rub-down after a sumptuous kaiseki meal. Ah, such is life in a ryokan - a must-do when in Japan.

The dinner was a 12-course. Sashimi, shabu-shabu, chawanmushi, etc - on fancy plates and with fancier names - we had it all tonight.

The first eight courses were already set on the dinner table when we entered our private banquet room. Very impressive. After spilling out the uncontainable oohs and ahhs, a long silence followed. We were so busy exploring each and every dish, for the first time during our trip, nobody really bothered with the sake.

!

I'm really stuffed now and I don't think I should be eating too much in the next couple of days. But I've been saying that after every meal this trip.

And there's still kaiseki breakfast to look forward to tomorrow.

A Tokyo Birthday

A clear view of Mt. Fuji, a tour of the Antoine Saint-Exupery Museum in Hakone, the best tempura meal I've ever had, ever, in Shinjuku. And an amazing number of birthday well wishes from my friends via Facebook.

This year's birthday present is so amazing, it can't be contained with wrappers or ribbons.

Not in Tokyo but still...

I've moved on from Tokyo to Hakone-Yumoto, a township full of onsen hotels.

Putting up at this place called Furusato, the cottage annex of the bigger Hotel Okada. I'd booked myself here thinking this was a ryokan with the full works, kaiseki, okami and all. Here, dinner is a lacklustre buffet spread. Even setting up the bedding is self-service.

Misunderstanding aside, this is quite a pleasant place to stay. Not so far from the JR station by bus. The hilly distance is possibly walkable though I haven't exactly tried. I did walk slightly more than midway for a sake run. At 3.30pm. Cos everything here closes at 4, says the recep.

Oh well. At least there's free wifi at the lobby of the main Hotel building. And an onsen that shuts its doors at 1am in the morning.

I'm not bored.

Got a train to catch

By 8.30am, I've stood in line for Sushi Dai for an hour and the line's barely moved. My train to Hakone leaves at 12.10pm.

Between Sushi Dai and Hakone? There is no fight.

Moving on to Bentomi Sushi. At 9am, my sushi breakfast is already in front of me. It looks great. And there's free wifi. Woot!

Phoot. The wasabi's the supermarket variety. And there's a bone in my hamachi sushi.

Guess those must be the reasons the crowd's at Sushi Dai and Daiwa Sushi.

The other famous sushi joint

Three years ago, the names Daiwa Sushi and Sushi Dai floated to the shores of Singapore. The best sushi restaurants in the outer market of Tsukiji Wholesale Centre.

Both restaurants are side by side and the lines outside the shops crammed the narrow market corridor. I thought the line in front of Daiwa Sushi was longer. So I parked myself in that line. For an hour or so. Before I got my food.

Today, there's barely a line in front of that stall. Why, I have no idea. The sushi was great and I was happy to part with 3500¥ worth of raw fish. Maybe it's cos Sushi Dai's had more publicity these couple of years.

Standing in line right now for the restaurant and everyone front and back of me, are Gaijin. Maybe just a couple of Japanese couples.

Hmm, a bunch of tourists right behind me just made off for Daiwa Sushi.

Any case, I'll just hold out for Sushi Dai. Since I've already been to the other one. Though my hunch tells me one sushi shop here is as good as another. How would a long line of foreigners / Trip Advisor junkies know better?

The bestie freezes

"It'll be 12°C," she said. "In any case, I'm not afraid of the cold."

This was yesterday. It was at best 10°C by tts way, not yet accounting for windchill. Today, she's hiding in our hotel room, seeking refuge under thick, warm sheets.

For those of us used to the tropical heat, a drastic drop in temperature should never be under-estimated. I learnt it the hard way two years ago, in the fall mind you, of NYC. Not gonna take any chances this Tokyo winter.

So it's a good thing that knowing the bestie, I brought two sets of cold weather wear. Just in case she decides it really is cold.

:p

Hello from Tokyo

Finally made it. It's cold but not as chilly as I was afraid it might be. Had convenience store supper 'cos the alternative was Anerican fast food at this late hour. Looks like the Hobo is well and alive.

Hobo at home.

Took leave from my hectic work life today. So enjoying the freedom that I don't wanna start packing.

Friend: Tokyo again?

Me: Yeah. I'm boring. Luckily Tokyo isn't.

T-5. It's 7°C in Tokyo.

Already 10am and it already feels like frostbite weather. Next week when I'll be in Tokyo, the temp will bounce between 10°C and 3°C.

I've been away from cold so long, I wonder if I can withstand the chill.

I've yet to start packing, I wonder if I can find enough layers to pad up.

...