Where are the Harajuku Girls?

Two trips to Tokyo.

Three stakeouts at Jingu-bashi.

And still no sighting.

Who goes to Tokyo without meeting a Harajuku Girl but me?

I did everything right: Showed up at 10am on a Sunday, showed up the next Saturday (in the rain). I even did a surprise check on the Wednesday in between — figured there might be a make-up session for the lack of show the weekend before.

I figured wrong. Even the security guard at Meiji Jingu next door had no idea why they should clear out every time I turn up.

Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know. I shouldn't take it personally.

Bah!

For the harmonious co-existence of non-smokers and non-smokers

At first glance, a smoker might find it impossible to survive nicotine addiction in Tokyo.

Smoking on the streets is illegal.

In Asakusa, there are bills and signboards everywhere, constantly telling you not to light up. They even paint reminders on pedestrian walkways. I saw the same message in Roppongi, plastered to the backs of uniformed volunteers, patrolling the streets for people who can't resist a smoke.

Smoking out in the open, is restricted to a few designated areas far between.

Spy a lonely ashtray and you'll spot a smoking area. Or spot a whole troop of smokers and the ashtray must be somewhere in that crowd.

Shibuya is a little more tobacco-tolerant than the other wards of Tokyo. You can tell by the sheer population of ashtrays in the area.

Right next to the Hachiko statue at Shibuya JR Station, there're rows of ashtrays under a standing shelter — weather-friendly paradise for nicotine-starved hobos. Smokers can also find generous breathing space in a little garden at the JR exit of Meiji-Jingumae Metro Station.

Still, Shibuya is by no means smoker-friendly. Where there're ashtrays, there're also not-so-subtle hints that smoking is rude, inconsiderate, outdated — yes, outdated! — fire-hazardous, etc. etc.

So much for the claim that they champion the coexistence of smokers and non-smokers.